Pavement Pie, Road Pizza, Center-Line Roast, Flat Meat,
Ground Meat, Speed Bump Chili, Slow-Rabbit Fricassee, Headlight Steaks with
Gravel Gravy—no matter what it’s called, it’s still roadkill.
When I still lived in Texas, I received a phone call from a
friend whose car had broken down.
He
was in need of a ride home, so I said I would do it.
Dale lived a few miles south of Fort Worth in the town of
Cleburne, but his car was at a repair shop near where I lived northeast of Fort
Worth, so it was easy to pick him up, although it was a long ride to his
home.
I didn’t mind.
We had just turned off the interstate highway toward his
home when Dale nearly leaped out of the car.
“Pull Over!!
That truck just ran
over a squirrel!”
I stopped, but I didn’t understand why it was such a big
deal.
Squirrels, rabbits, ‘possums,
armadillos, skunks, and just about anything else was often flattened on Texas
roads.
However, Dale jumped out of the
car and picked up the squirrel.
What
was he going to do?
Take it to the
vet?
Nurse it back to health?
Dale got back into the car with his prize and said, “Gonna
add this to the ones in the freezer.
A
couple more and I’ll have enough to make me a stew.”
I didn’t know what to say, so I just started the car and
finished the drive.
Dale, on the other
hand, had plenty to say.
He apparently
had a freezer full of roadkill, and was planning to have a barbeque in the near
future.
He also had a saying, “If it’s
round, get it off the ground.
If it’s
flat, leave it where it’s at.”
To that
I quickly developed my own saying, “Round or flat, leave it where it’s
at.”
Not that I was ever tempted to do
anything else.
When I dropped Dale off at his home, he invited me to come
back for the barbeque in about three weeks.
I told him I thought I would be in Chicago.
Well, the three weeks passed, and I forgot to be in
Chicago.
I stopped in the company store
in Fort Worth to talk with the store manager, and the first person I saw was
Dale.
He was shopping for a new smoker.
“David!
I thought
you were going to be in Chicago today.”
“I just got back.”
Dang! I should have said I was getting ready to go.
“Great.
Come on by
this evening.
I’m smoking up some of
the good stuff from my freezer.”
Oh, Me!
“Sure, I’ll
be there.”
I’ve eaten, or attempted to eat, just about every kind of
meat found in North America, but it was taken by hunting with a weapon (think
rifle, bow and arrow, shotgun), not a car or truck.
For some strange reason, Furry Frisbees have no appeal to me.
But I was trapped.
There was no way out of this without damaging our friendship.
I drove to Dale’s place hoping to run over some nails and
have several flat tires.
I checked the
gasoline in the car, but the tank was full.
I tested the brakes, but they were working just fine.
Why did I have to own a reliable car?
And the road was dry, not wet and
slippery.
Where is all the ice and snow
when you need it?
Basically I drove
there without having any problems at all.
Dale answered the door, and we went to his back yard where
about twenty people with worried expressions on their faces were sitting around
staring at the four smokers.
I joined
them.
But I have to admit the smell was
fantastic.
One man commented he was
“standing in the middle of the road” about this meal.
All too soon Dale announced the smoking was done.
He lifted the lid on the first smoker and
there was a turkey.
A whole
turkey.
It wasn’t flat, and it wasn’t
even lopsided.
When he lifted the lid
on the second smoker, there were about ten racks of pork ribs.
Smokers three and four contained pork loins
and beef briskets.
It was as though the entire world breathed a sigh of
relief.
Suddenly all the worried looks
disappeared and meaningful conversation began.
Later I asked Dale what happened to the idea of the roadkill barbeque.
“Oh, I wouldn’t do that to my friends.
Besides, it always tastes like tire tread.”
Rabbit Stew
Serves 8 to 10.
2 domestic rabbit
(or 6 wild cottontails—please, don’t use roadkill)
Kosher salt
Olive oil for
sauteing
18 white pearl
onions, peeled
1 large red
onion, sliced
1 small yellow
onion, sliced
7 cloves garlic,
chopped
12 allspice
berries
12 black
peppercorns
2 (3-inch) sticks
cinnamon
5 bay leaves
1 small sprig
fresh rosemary
2 tablespoon
dried oregano
8 ounces pitted
prunes
1 (14-ounce) can
artichoke hearts, drained and quartered
¼ cup tomato
paste
8 large tomatoes,
skinned and chopped, or 2 (14 1/2-ounce) can crushed tomatoes
2 cup dry red
wine
1 cup sweet red
wine such as port or Greek Mavrodaphne if you can find it
1 cup chicken
stock (if you just happen to have rabbit stock, use it instead)
½ cup red wine
vinegar
Freshly ground
black pepper
Extra-virgin
olive oil
Grated kefalotyri
cheese
Cut the rabbits into pieces and remove as much meat as
possible from the bones.
Cube the meat
into bite-size pieces.
Add to the meat
any scraps of meat such as the front legs (with bones), belly trimmings, etc.
Salt the meat well and set aside for about ½ hour.
Salt the leftover bones and set aside in a separate dish.
Heat ¼ cup olive oil in a skillet or sauté pan and brown the
rabbit pieces. As each piece browns, move it to large Dutch oven. After
browning the rabbit, saute the onions, adding more olive oil as necessary, for
4-5 minutes over medium-high heat, until they are beginning to brown. Add the
garlic and saute for another minute. Sprinkle with a little salt. Do not let
the garlic burn. Remove the onions to
the Dutch oven along with the rabbit pieces.
Add the rabbit bones to the skillet and sauté until
brown. Remove the bones to a platter
lined with two layers of cheesecloth.
Gather the cloth into a bundle and tie the top. Add this bundle to the Dutch oven. Into another square of cheesecloth, place
the allspice berries, peppercorns, cinnamon sticks, bay leaves, and rosemary. Tie into a bundle and add to the Dutch
oven. Then add the oregano, prunes, and
artichoke hearts to the Dutch oven.
To the skillet used for browning the rabbit and onions, add
the wines, wine vinegar, stock, tomato paste and chopped tomatoes. Reduce over high heat for about 5 to 6
minutes, then pour the mixture into the Dutch oven.
Bring the Dutch oven to a simmer. Cover and slowly simmer
for about 1 hour before checking for doneness.
Then check every 15 to 20 minutes until the meat is almost falling
apart.
To serve, remove the two bundles from the Dutch oven and
discard. Ladle the stew into bowls, and
give each bowl a few grinds of black pepper and a drizzle of extra-virgin olive
oil. Top with a tablespoon or two of
the grated kefalotyri cheese.
Wild cottontails have a little more flavor than the domestic
rabbits, but domestic rabbit is more readily available for most people.
Whichever you choose, please, don’t go for
the interstate edition.